- Jun 17, 2007
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Oh and nothing wrong with regular flex shafts.
I'm off 5 and only have 3 stiff shafts in my bag.
Golf Golf Clubs/Equipment Discussion.
- Thread starter Vincent Chase
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I'm off 5 and only have 3 stiff shafts in my bag.
Revamping my swing currently (slanting my torso more forward).
The adjustment isn't easy, and there are some errent shots, however the duck hooks/slices seem to be evaporating.
My scratch-playing mate says that most premium balls are almost identical and the supposed differences are mostly derived from marketing drivel.
The biggest issue for me is my shots from sub-100m, where I can't get the ball to stop unless I use a pro-v1/hex-dimpled ball.
Unfortunately, I'm a uni student on a strict budget and have been on the lookout for an alternative for months.
What's your swing speed?
- Jun 17, 2007
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I have no idea what you mean by slanting your torso more forward, I'd have to see a picture.
Yeah the premium balls are similar, but I'm saying that you don't need to be playing with one, because you'll be putting too much side spin on the ball.
The idea that you can't stop a harder ball is just wrong. You can stop a crappy range ball instantly if you hit it right.
If you are short of cash, In all seriousness, have you considered going for a walk one night at a golf course to get some free balls? You can find heaps of near new balls sometimes!
No idea on my current swing speed tbh.
Blades being preferred by some for shaping including myself IS ( agreed) little to do with the soft club head its to do with the balanced feel of the club head during the swing especially nearing impact. The perimeter weight in cavity backs kinda forces the face to square up at the bottom of the arc by the centrifugal force (great for straight shots)more brutally than the blades do which makes many cavity backs feel out of balance and clumsy when trying to keep even a slightly open or closed face during the downswing which tries to throw the shaft off plane. Changing ball position (d plane systems etc) is the adopted method to overcome this problem so in affect minimising the need to play a shot with an open or closed face which cavity backs resist. So eg. to slice you aim left and play the ball back so in effect you catch the ball before the club has forced itself shut with the normal swing. Of course there are still slight swing variances needed etc. Cutting or drawing the ball this way is the correct way with these clubs but is actually far more difficult than cutting or drawing with blades because with blades you can use your normal swing and tweak the face open or shut a tad in your grip without noticing a major change in the feel of the club head in the swing. Of course the same d plane methods work with blades and are helpful on hooks and slices but to play a slight fade or draw it is far easier when you can just tweak the face and do your normal swing without fighting against a weird feeling club head.
High handicappers wouldn't notice any difference because they grip the club far too tight to allow the club face to open and shut by itself rather everything is forced.
My 2c. I haven't read the thread so sorry if you know all that anyway I wasn't preaching I just think some players who maybe have never used blades haven't experienced the differences in feels.
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Very old school thoughts old mate... Hitting a little draw or fade is nothing to do with "tweaking" the clubface at impact and everything to do with path v's face. This has been proven by super slo mo cameras and 3D Doppler radar technology like Trackman. You don't shut the face at impact to hit a draw, infact you want the club face to be open to the target to hit a draw but closed to the path. This is achievable with a Ping I2 clunker from the 90's or a Titleist MB. Many many players get caught up in the "feel" of blades when they would be far better players with something a little more forgiving. Their shot shaping ability wouldn't really suffer.
Your swing path is always the same in relation to your stance for any shots so for a fade you face left of target swing on your usual path with a tweaked open clubface pre tweaked at address to aim at your target the ball goes initially along your swing path line and cuts back to the target due to the cut spin the open face in relation to your path gave the ball. Therefore your face is square to the target but open to the path and since it's open to the path it has a slightly different feel in your hands to a square to path neutral clubface for a straight shot. But less different with blades compared to many cavity backs.
Are you suggesting you do completely different swings for a draw and a fade? Eg in to out for a draw and out to in for a fade? That's far more difficult to be consistent than doing the same in to in swing for all swings with a pre tweaked clubface imo but some do it that way some do it my way even tour pros differ.
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I might have misunderstood you a little, I thought you were talking about some kind of mid swing tweak (rolling / shutting) of the face at impact to hit a draw.
No way lol
Elixuh
See you on the 9th green at 9
Anyone have any experience with Seemore putters?
_Wang_
73,74,80,17,19,20
I have used a few in the past. I found with the ones I used, that to make the red dot disappear at address my hands would be level or behind the ball and I didnt putt well with it.
Elixuh
See you on the 9th green at 9
Golfbox is pretty amazing. I ordered some stuff from there yesterday (they're in Perth) at ~4.40pm...it arrived at my doorstep (in Brisbane) this morning at 10.30. Free shipping as well.
Elixuh
See you on the 9th green at 9
I have a voucher I found if anyone needs anything: 8F47MG $20 off $100 (valid 13/11).
- Aug 15, 2011
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How do you get these voucher codes for money off? But Golfbox really quick with delivery. Also will have some good deals coming soon.
Does anyone know how much i should be paying to get a pitching wedge reshafted roughly?
Hit 44 on the weekend/ 9 holes. Hit an 8 on the first then 4 pars all on par 4s on the way home. Also had to take a drop so was pretty solid. Played at Wembley old course.
How much can a putter improve your game really?
Hitting low to mid 40s off 9 atm. Looking to take the next step. Have adams stiff shaft clubs. Swing speed about 105/106 (kms? Or miles - one of them).
Gonna try play at least once a week see if i can improve my game a bit with time off.
Does anyone know how much i should be paying to get a pitching wedge reshafted roughly?
Hit 44 on the weekend/ 9 holes. Hit an 8 on the first then 4 pars all on par 4s on the way home. Also had to take a drop so was pretty solid. Played at Wembley old course.
How much can a putter improve your game really?
Hitting low to mid 40s off 9 atm. Looking to take the next step. Have adams stiff shaft clubs. Swing speed about 105/106 (kms? Or miles - one of them).
Gonna try play at least once a week see if i can improve my game a bit with time off.
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toxic
Premium Gold
- Aug 15, 2011
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Putting was good finally worked it out. Thats what im saying dont think it matters too much with what putter you have in hand for putting if it feels good and comfortable. A flat blade is a flat blade.
Mu putters the oldest club in my bag. My adams clubs arent anything special cost 400 down from 600 but they hit them pretty well i have the cavity back end head, what do blades do?
It's really worth going into a golf shop with a practice green and testing out all sorts of different types of putters to see which type you feel the most comfortable with and which gives you the best results. If your current putter isn't well suited to you then a different one could make a significant difference.
Blades are a hell of a lot more difficult to hit and less forgiving when you mishit them. They are generally for those with very low handicaps.
Blades will work the ball Left-right or right to left more. However they have a very small sweet spot so off centre hits feel horrible and travel worse.
Don't use blades unless you consistently keep your handicap < 4.
Don't use blades unless you consistently keep your handicap < 4.
Again, it pays to test a whole lot of different types of irons, especially if you get the chance to get to a demo-day at a course or driving range near you.
- Aug 15, 2011
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Thanka for the advice. Id say my handicap would be between 12-18 i dont actually have one.
What do blades do better? If you hit the sweep spot do they go further?
- Aug 15, 2011
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How do you find out about demo days. Im in WA
The advantage with blades is that they generally have the best feel (especially if they are made from forged steel) and are the easiest to work left or right, as 11sjw said, and those with lower handicaps also tend to prefer them because they have less offset, which is something that clubs for those with higher handicaps tend to have, to help reduce a slice.
They won't necessarily go further than non-blades and you really do need to hit them on the sweet spot most of the time, or it won't feel good, or travel where you want it to go. You also need to make sure you don't hit your shots "fat" with them, because they will generally dig into the turf more than cavity back type clubs, due to the sharper leading edge, resulting in a huge divot and shots that hardly go anywhere!
They won't necessarily go further than non-blades and you really do need to hit them on the sweet spot most of the time, or it won't feel good, or travel where you want it to go. You also need to make sure you don't hit your shots "fat" with them, because they will generally dig into the turf more than cavity back type clubs, due to the sharper leading edge, resulting in a huge divot and shots that hardly go anywhere!
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Perhaps a ring around to your nearest clubs or driving ranges, or else Google. You can learn so much from demo-days and they are also a heap of fun. They will give you a general idea of which clubs suit you best and you can then find some in your price range that are the most applicable (whether new or used).
toxic
Premium Gold
Mizuno's are damn good!
