Surfing

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Jan Juc/Lorne if you're still beginning.

Hopefully you've mastered the pop up now, and know the breaks inside out! Plethora of excellent spots in VIC despite the cold water temperatures. Surfing is great fun, epsecially when the winds are offshore and the line ups aren't crowded.
 
Yeah I want to get into to it, but being tall (now 6'5) in the two limited experiences I had on a longboard I even found getting up a challenge. Is there some way of working on this, or is continual practice on a longboard the only way?
 

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nbaman1 said:
Yeah I want to get into to it, but being tall (now 6'5) in the two limited experiences I had on a longboard I even found getting up a challenge. Is there some way of working on this, or is continual practice on a longboard the only way?
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I'm 6'2'' and started on an 8 footer. There are so many different board sizes/volumes nowadays - just practice and practice. Surfing is one of the hardest activities to learn full of frustrating moments, but you'll be hooked as soon as you start 'popping up' successfully on a regular basis and move from the whitewater to the clean wave.

Keep getting out there as much as you can - nothing to lose, everyone was an unco beginner at one point. Oh, and keep your hands off the rails and stay off your knees!
 
Thomas9 said:
Yeah, mostly on the smaller days when buoyancy is a necessity.

How's your progress mcuzzy ?
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Only surfed twice since this post was made, both times at SHoreham. First time was a big failure, went out on emty stomach after doing a big sesh at the gym the night before, so I was pretty much useless. Second time out I managed to stand up twice, not for long though. Saving up for a board now so I can just go out and have a crack whenever I have a day off and I'm in the mood.

I noticed further up the thread you said don't hold the rails, which is something I've tried not to do (damn skateboarding). WHy is it bad to hold the rails though?
 
I should've elaborated - holding the side(s) of the board is fine when you're sitting out the back, ploughing through waves, etc.. hell, you need hold on tight to the rails when navigating bigger surf (turtle rolling). It's just not a good habit to get into when transferring from the prone position to your stance as a beginner; your focus needs to be on pushing up in the centre of the board with flat hands (which should be under your chest/armpits). Knee-riding/rail-holding, especially simultaneously, lead to poor board balance which is the enemy when learning to stand up on a wave. Worth noting that many experienced surfers change up their hand/leg positioning when popping up - Kelly actually pushes up with his right hand on the rail & left 50cm further up on the centre-left of the board.

I just consider it pivotal keeping it as simple as possible when you're starting off. Educate yourself, research how different winds affect certain spots. Also if you're new to the whole oceanic environment, try to keep to the more protected spots on the Peninsula if you can - and definitely stay away from Gunnamatta - the place is shocking, so much undertow, wind exposure, sewage discharge 20m offshore (resulting in a certain ear-infection after surfing), flash rips, dumping waves, just awful. I wouldn't go out there if you paid me.

Finally, expect to feel frustrated and hard done by at first. Go out 3 times a week and by say, April you'll be much more confident, getting up 90% of the time, and most importantly loving it. Persistence is absolutely the key when it comes to learning.

btw, worth checking the reports/surfcams before heading out:

- Swellnet
- Coastalwatch
- Wannasurf is great as well, a well documented surf spot directory.

Happy shredding!
 
Thomas9 said:
I'm 6'2'' and started on an 8 footer. There are so many different board sizes/volumes nowadays - just practice and practice. Surfing is one of the hardest activities to learn full of frustrating moments, but you'll be hooked as soon as you start 'popping up' successfully on a regular basis and move from the whitewater to the clean wave.

Keep getting out there as much as you can - nothing to lose, everyone was an unco beginner at one point. Oh, and keep your hands off the rails and stay off your knees!
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Yeah, once I sort out my driving situation I definitely aim to get a board and head down the coast for some practice.

Would doing any balance stuff help with it too?
 
nbaman1 said:
Yeah, once I sort out my driving situation I definitely aim to get a board and head down the coast for some practice.

Would doing any balance stuff help with it too?
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How many hours have you done?

The best land-based preparation is swimming laps of freestyle, as that's the greatest simulation to paddling that there is & will help build up the muscle/stamina needed for longer surfing sessions.

If you've skated/snowboarded before, you'll be sound re balance. If not, it's just best to learn for yourself when you're out in the surf.

If you're really keen to give yourself the best chance of standing up on your first few goes, maybe do some research re the pop up technique, then practice it on the floor. Working the required muscles/training your body through repetition of the prone-crouched movement will make the challenge of not looking like a massive kook the first time you venture to the coast a tad easier.
 
Also it doesn't matter how much practice you do beforehand, expect to kook it up big time to start. Everyone goes through that stage to begin with. I reckon it took me about 6 surfs before I could actually stand up and ride a wave, but I still remember that wave and the feeling 30 years later. Main thing is to catch lots of waves. It sounds simple, but the more waves you catch, the faster you improve. Start at a beachie so you can through yourself into lots of waves without hurting yourself.

It's really is great sport to get into, you get to travel to some amazing places and meet lots of interesting people with really different approaches to life. Plus just being out in the ocean is a really positive thing, gives you great perspective about life.

You should be able to find some cheap 2nd hand gear on gumtree.

Now I want winter so we can get some swell again.

Yew!!!!
 
Thomas9 said:
How many hours have you done?

The best land-based preparation is swimming laps of freestyle, as that's the greatest simulation to paddling that there is & will help build up the muscle/stamina needed for longer surfing sessions.

If you've skated/snowboarded before, you'll be sound re balance. If not, it's just best to learn for yourself when you're out in the surf.

If you're really keen to give yourself the best chance of standing up on your first few goes, maybe do some research re the pop up technique, then practice it on the floor. Working the required muscles/training your body through repetition of the prone-crouched movement will make the challenge of not looking like a massive kook the first time you venture to the coast a tad easier.
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Only one or two lessons, with the last one unfortunately being about two years ago.

Whenever I go back I'm sure I'll be fine with the general paddling movements etc, just need to get the standing up part sorted.
 
Just remember guys: if all else fails, there's no shame in boogie boarding.

giphy.gif
 

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Nee surf where I am, enduring a dry spell. Went out ripple riding this arvo on a 9'6".

Anyway, here are some clips I thought you lads would enjoy:





 
Thomas9 said:
I should've elaborated - holding the side(s) of the board is fine when you're sitting out the back, ploughing through waves, etc.. hell, you need hold on tight to the rails when navigating bigger surf (turtle rolling). It's just not a good habit to get into when transferring from the prone position to your stance as a beginner; your focus needs to be on pushing up in the centre of the board with flat hands (which should be under your chest/armpits). Knee-riding/rail-holding, especially simultaneously, lead to poor board balance which is the enemy when learning to stand up on a wave. Worth noting that many experienced surfers change up their hand/leg positioning when popping up - Kelly actually pushes up with his right hand on the rail & left 50cm further up on the centre-left of the board.

I just consider it pivotal keeping it as simple as possible when you're starting off. Educate yourself, research how different winds affect certain spots. Also if you're new to the whole oceanic environment, try to keep to the more protected spots on the Peninsula if you can - and definitely stay away from Gunnamatta - the place is shocking, so much undertow, wind exposure, sewage discharge 20m offshore (resulting in a certain ear-infection after surfing), flash rips, dumping waves, just awful. I wouldn't go out there if you paid me.

Finally, expect to feel frustrated and hard done by at first. Go out 3 times a week and by say, April you'll be much more confident, getting up 90% of the time, and most importantly loving it. Persistence is absolutely the key when it comes to learning.

btw, worth checking the reports/surfcams before heading out:

- Swellnet
- Coastalwatch
- Wannasurf is great as well, a well documented surf spot directory.

Happy shredding!
Click to expand...

You champion.

I haven't been frustrated yet, even after 2 hours of stuffing up while badly fatigued I was still having a ripper of a time. I'm sure when I start to take it more seriously the frustration will kick in.

Is Gunnamatta any good on smaller days? The surf school I went with sometimes have lessons there which freaked me out after hearing about experienced surfers battling away and struggling to get a good ride.

One last question. Which specific beaches should I go to?

Shoreham and Pt Leo seem to be fairly safe. I like going to Inverloch and most of the time that seems pretty cruisy when the waves are going, always see youngsters learning to surf down there. Every time I go to Wonthaggi/Bass Coast the surf looks way beyond my ability. Woodside beach on the South East Coast usually looks decent on smaller days although I haven't been there in years. Went to surf coast area too and some days certain areas looked surfable and some days the waves looked terrifying.
 
I wouldn't go to Gunnamatta ever, regardless of the conditions.

Yeah, Pt Leo/Shoreham are usually fine. Rye on a westerly/sw is always great value.

Depends where you live really. I'm originally from Mt Martha and began surfing all the Pen/occasionally Phillip Island. If you can give me an approximate location as to where you reside then I could inform you of some good local spots. Driving 30 mins to surf can be a task, if the wind is offshore and at least 2-3ft at your local you have no reason at all to go elsewhere.
 
Crunchies (Point Leo) is the best beginner wave within a reasonable radius of Frankston. Make sure the winds are westerly and the swell has some size to it - if it's 5/6ft on the opens then on a W it'll be clean and 2/3ft at Crunchies.

I'd stay away from the open beaches on the back of the Peninsula until you're really well surf educated. Unless it's on a small, still day where the exposure of those breaks will drag in some nice surf.

Of course, never go to Gunners though. Ever.


Down Geetroit way, Jan Juc, Torquay and Ocean Grove are all terrific spots depending on the wind.
 
TheLoris said:
Also it doesn't matter how much practice you do beforehand, expect to kook it up big time to start. Everyone goes through that stage to begin with. I reckon it took me about 6 surfs before I could actually stand up and ride a wave, but I still remember that wave and the feeling 30 years later. Main thing is to catch lots of waves. It sounds simple, but the more waves you catch, the faster you improve. Start at a beachie so you can through yourself into lots of waves without hurting yourself.

It's really is great sport to get into, you get to travel to some amazing places and meet lots of interesting people with really different approaches to life. Plus just being out in the ocean is a really positive thing, gives you great perspective about life.

You should be able to find some cheap 2nd hand gear on gumtree.

Now I want winter so we can get some swell again.

Yew!!!!
Click to expand...

Yeah, spot on. Recently just started giving it a crack, bought a board off gumtree, and managed to find a cheap wetsuit dealer which didn't set me back too much. I'm awful, but being out in the ocean is unreal. Love it.
 
Cotchin 9 said:
Yeah, spot on. Recently just started giving it a crack, bought a board off gumtree, and managed to find a cheap wetsuit dealer which didn't set me back too much. I'm awful, but being out in the ocean is unreal. Love it.
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Good to hear, mate! Which spot/s have you tried?
 
Cotchin 9 said:
Yeah, spot on. Recently just started giving it a crack, bought a board off gumtree, and managed to find a cheap wetsuit dealer which didn't set me back too much. I'm awful, but being out in the ocean is unreal. Love it.
Click to expand...
Where abouts did you pick up the cheap wetsuit from? Looking around for one, checked out some surf stores but geez the $$ are high for something decent

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
Surf has been pretty good on the Sunshine Coast this week. 3-4ft sets w/light SSW winds until around 8am.

Unfortunately I've strained a muscle in my chest, which makes everything painful when surfing; from laying on my board to paddling. Awful timing really, been out twice out of 4 days of the swell whilst injured, hard to resist. 2x ibuprofen, 2x panadol and some voltaren on the area makes the mechanics of surfing somewhat bearable.:thumbsdown: :oops:
 
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