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- #3,501
OK, home now. Funny, mine was sitting at 60'ish for a while even after booting up. After about 5 minutes it has come down to 45 and bouncing around a bit. It is a bit stuffy in here at the moment though so that might be due to ambient temp. That's sort of a quirk of AIOs and water though, they'll do great at limiting the peak load temp but won't do much to those CPU spikes.
It might not be what you want to hear but the h510 case is known to run a bit warm in some configurations. But that should affect the GPU more than the CPU, so let's just run through absolutely everything just to double check. Most obvious is the check the pump is mounted properly. I've experienced before that not having the block screwed down evenly and having even contact was enough to raise the temps. If you don't have any spare thermal paste on hand then I wouldn't go ripping it off just yet, maybe just try to re-fasten it. If you do take it off because you've got paste on hand then make sure to clean it all off properly and reapply. Don't run all of those monitoring programs at the same time either if you are. Not because you can crash (and you probably will, they don't like each other), but those are all processes hooking into your CPU at pretty low level which will activate more cores and drive the temps up. If you aren't using Ryzen Master for anything other than monitoring then I'd bugger it off, or just don't open it. Just iCue is fine, I wouldn't worry about CoreTemp or HWINFO or anything like that unless you're overclocking. It also won't hurt to update your BIOS just in case your board manufacturer has a better default profile that runs at lower stock voltages or something.
As long as you've got no fancy power boosting or overclocking settings going on in BIOS then the temps should be nothing firmware or software related. Since you said you were unsure with the fan settings then here is a full run through in my own opinion. Others will obviously have different ideas but this is generally how I roll.
Firstly, AIO setup. You might already know but I'll go through it anyway just for future reference or if anyone else wants to know. The pump cable can go to either the AIO header on your motherboard (if you have one) or to either of the CPU fan headers. The difference is that the AIO header is default to 100% speed but depending on make and model of motherboard they both should be PWM. The CPU header is designed for safety in that if the reading fails then you'll get a warning and the PC won't boot to windows. There is a myth around that a pump needs to run at 100% 24/7, but they just like to run at a constant speed. I run mine at 70% 24/7 which is about ~2200rpm on my z73. From there you can plug your fans into either the splitter from the pump or to the CPU headers. Personally I just plugged my pump into the AIO header and fans into the pump, and disabled CPU fan monitoring in BIOS so it would let me boot into Windows.
Fan profiles. On an AIO you don't need the fans reacting to every little spike. Not only is it unnecessary but the noise of constantly ramping up and down will do your head in. As long as you have a good water flow then your idle/silent profile you should just set to a maximum to where the fans are still inaudible. That's my preference anyway. I set my intakes (in my case they are the radiator fans as mine is mounted to the front of the case) to about 50% which is right now saying about ~1230rpm and my exhausts on the absolute minimum that CAM lets me which is 20%, about 600rpm. The reason is that it's the water in the loop that is carrying the heat away from the CPU and the air flow isn't as important. Right now my liquid is sitting at 30c and when I game it will take at least a few hours to hit 35c. As long as that water is staying cool and the pump is moving the water through at a decent rate then your max temps are going to stay pretty checked. But that's why it won't do much for those intermittent spikes. I run the intakes harder too just to try and do my best to achieve positive pressure. It's probably not perfect as I've got 4 exhaust vs 3 intakes but hopefully it's helping keep some of the dust out.
So in saying all that I've setup my case fan profiles actually for my GPU temp as the CPU doesn't really need it, and obviously when I'm playing games the CPU is going to warm up anyway. I monitored my GPU to find it's usual gaming temp just so I knew where to ramp it up so my fans don't just start buzzing about because I loaded a YouTube vid or something.
You'll be able to do something similar in iCue. Even under load I only run my exhausts at 50%. The case doesn't need to be a wind tunnel, just a nice steady air flow.
And as a comparison my intakes (which are on the radiator and connected to the pump splitter). I found anything above 80% and they start getting a little noisy.
Ideally your idle temps need to come down a bit. Even after writing this and my room air con has cooled everything down my 5900x has jumped up to around 50c a few times before coming back down to 43-45c. Clearly this humidity is still affecting the ambient temp a bit. You might want to check your peak load temp while you're at it as well. Just play a game for a little while or grab Cinebench from the Windows store and play with both multicore and single core tests. For me my max load temp is around 65c, yours might be higher but if it's above 75-80c then I'd definitely look at removing the block, reapplying the paste and re-fitting it.
It might not be what you want to hear but the h510 case is known to run a bit warm in some configurations. But that should affect the GPU more than the CPU, so let's just run through absolutely everything just to double check. Most obvious is the check the pump is mounted properly. I've experienced before that not having the block screwed down evenly and having even contact was enough to raise the temps. If you don't have any spare thermal paste on hand then I wouldn't go ripping it off just yet, maybe just try to re-fasten it. If you do take it off because you've got paste on hand then make sure to clean it all off properly and reapply. Don't run all of those monitoring programs at the same time either if you are. Not because you can crash (and you probably will, they don't like each other), but those are all processes hooking into your CPU at pretty low level which will activate more cores and drive the temps up. If you aren't using Ryzen Master for anything other than monitoring then I'd bugger it off, or just don't open it. Just iCue is fine, I wouldn't worry about CoreTemp or HWINFO or anything like that unless you're overclocking. It also won't hurt to update your BIOS just in case your board manufacturer has a better default profile that runs at lower stock voltages or something.
As long as you've got no fancy power boosting or overclocking settings going on in BIOS then the temps should be nothing firmware or software related. Since you said you were unsure with the fan settings then here is a full run through in my own opinion. Others will obviously have different ideas but this is generally how I roll.
Firstly, AIO setup. You might already know but I'll go through it anyway just for future reference or if anyone else wants to know. The pump cable can go to either the AIO header on your motherboard (if you have one) or to either of the CPU fan headers. The difference is that the AIO header is default to 100% speed but depending on make and model of motherboard they both should be PWM. The CPU header is designed for safety in that if the reading fails then you'll get a warning and the PC won't boot to windows. There is a myth around that a pump needs to run at 100% 24/7, but they just like to run at a constant speed. I run mine at 70% 24/7 which is about ~2200rpm on my z73. From there you can plug your fans into either the splitter from the pump or to the CPU headers. Personally I just plugged my pump into the AIO header and fans into the pump, and disabled CPU fan monitoring in BIOS so it would let me boot into Windows.
Fan profiles. On an AIO you don't need the fans reacting to every little spike. Not only is it unnecessary but the noise of constantly ramping up and down will do your head in. As long as you have a good water flow then your idle/silent profile you should just set to a maximum to where the fans are still inaudible. That's my preference anyway. I set my intakes (in my case they are the radiator fans as mine is mounted to the front of the case) to about 50% which is right now saying about ~1230rpm and my exhausts on the absolute minimum that CAM lets me which is 20%, about 600rpm. The reason is that it's the water in the loop that is carrying the heat away from the CPU and the air flow isn't as important. Right now my liquid is sitting at 30c and when I game it will take at least a few hours to hit 35c. As long as that water is staying cool and the pump is moving the water through at a decent rate then your max temps are going to stay pretty checked. But that's why it won't do much for those intermittent spikes. I run the intakes harder too just to try and do my best to achieve positive pressure. It's probably not perfect as I've got 4 exhaust vs 3 intakes but hopefully it's helping keep some of the dust out.
So in saying all that I've setup my case fan profiles actually for my GPU temp as the CPU doesn't really need it, and obviously when I'm playing games the CPU is going to warm up anyway. I monitored my GPU to find it's usual gaming temp just so I knew where to ramp it up so my fans don't just start buzzing about because I loaded a YouTube vid or something.
You'll be able to do something similar in iCue. Even under load I only run my exhausts at 50%. The case doesn't need to be a wind tunnel, just a nice steady air flow.
And as a comparison my intakes (which are on the radiator and connected to the pump splitter). I found anything above 80% and they start getting a little noisy.
Ideally your idle temps need to come down a bit. Even after writing this and my room air con has cooled everything down my 5900x has jumped up to around 50c a few times before coming back down to 43-45c. Clearly this humidity is still affecting the ambient temp a bit. You might want to check your peak load temp while you're at it as well. Just play a game for a little while or grab Cinebench from the Windows store and play with both multicore and single core tests. For me my max load temp is around 65c, yours might be higher but if it's above 75-80c then I'd definitely look at removing the block, reapplying the paste and re-fitting it.