Painting miniatures, terrain and scenery.

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Overall he's quite dark. Next one I will go a bit brighter with the green for contrast with the hair, pelt and leather.

Should I put some green in with the nuln oil wash or just use it straight?
 
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haha - I put the troll under the mag lamp I bought and got a bit of a shock at the number of tiny spots that I missed. The wash might flow in there.

Guy at GW Palmdale (Bris) is quite helpful. Also my comic shop sells P3 paints that are as expensive as the GW paints at $6 a pot.
 
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feral_troll_Aug_2015.jpg
Bad picture, but there he is. His brother waiting in line. Good enough for a game board.

The wash is not even, I tried to fix it up with more green, but the shade doesn't match... all the beginner mistakes, I imagine. One big issue is the head has lots more detail than the rest of the skin, and more wash accumulated, which made the head look darker than the rest of it, which meant I tried to dry brush more green, but the dry brush is much flatter and the wash is glossy... it ended up looking crappy up close.

Basing was interesting - some polystyrene for the broken bricks at the back, stones from some old fish tank gravel I had under the house, and sand from the kids sandpit. It is mostly very light gray because the figure is so dark. I tried a bit of moss or lichen around the bricks but it isn't bright enough.

Time to get some spray sealant and move on to the next one.
 
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drakes-painted.jpg

Finally finished off these evil creatures: Legend of Drizzt drakes.

Tried to give them unique environments. The idea for the lava sands on the red one I got from the YouToobs. Mine looks a bit dodgier though.

The bases probably need a bit more of a tidy around the edges, and maybe one last light dry brush, but I am calling it a day and moving on to new figures.
 
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goblin_cutters.jpg

I'm pretty meh about the Legend of Drizzt goblin cutters.

I tried to speed things up to get them done over a couple of days, but they are a bit muddy. The heads are like 5mm across and correcting a couple of goofs meant too much paint covering the detail.

Still need a couple of tidy ups where I have coloured outside the lines, but again they are good enough for the game board. No basing this time. I will try to get some flock for the next base I do, try it out.
 
Watching TV and played with a corrugated iron fence thing I saw on a site (germy.co.uk). 5mm 3mm foam core base, corrugated cardboard and paddle pop sticks for the posts and railings behind. Bit o' glue and sand for bitumen.

Main object was to practice making rust (red, yellow and a tiny touch of blue, FYI) and gunmetal (silver with a dab of black).

I have ordered some futuristic minis + skirmish rules that were on sale so a bit of this type of stuff for the battlefield will be nice.

rusty-iron-fence.jpg
(Base not quite finished plus a few spots of cardboard to cover. Might make some bullet holes too. Oh the possibilities! 40mm high, the rust could stand out a bit more from a foot or two away, might add more.)

I'm also thinking about working up to building a full miniature zombie apocalypse fortified compound because ... reasons? So this type of stuff will fit right in.
 
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Looks really good.
 
The boy and I started cutting up some foam core to build the keep from Hoard of the Dragon Queen for the game group.

My thought was to use printed textures, glue them to the foam core. Easy.

My son - now a bit intrigued by this modelling lark so there will be more school holiday photos going up in this thread - has suggested we score all of the brickwork in and paint it. But the thing does have about 40 inches of walls so that's a lot of scoring. Anyone know any other easy-ish methods to get a passable brickwork texture onto foam core?

Wait... there's always an instructional video featuring a creepy old guy:



Just tried out scoring bricks into a small bit of foamcore - it isn't too hard. Good repetitive work for our household's excess child labour.

Castle gate:

castle-gate.jpg


Stippled with filler (which then melts away when painted :( ):
castle-wall.jpg
 
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Chief said:
Stippled with filler (which then melts away when painted :( ):
176219_4621086b36f52b2e9ba36432005e7d17.jpg
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This would look good with a light grey and then some kind of dry wash in browns and greens for your ancient mossy growth and dirt and stuff.
 
Beerfish said:
This would look good with a light grey and then some kind of dry wash in browns and greens for your ancient mossy growth and dirt and stuff.
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The black has gone on, but as it needed to be watery to get into the cracks the filler flattened out. Next time I'll do the watery crack-filling then stipple, then go over in straight black again. Or find black foamcore

I'll try out the greens and browns on my test piece, I've been trying to think of ways to make it more interesting than just black, grey dry brush, light grey highlights.
 

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NTRabbit said:
I used greenstuff, then cheaper but nearly identical milliput, and cheaper again but ultimately not as good air drying clay, pressed into Basius basing pads. The Mark II pads are due out in May. They're pretty neat, especially if you're otherwise going to buy lots of resin bases.

This month I'm going to be using some different techniques though, you'll have to wait and see!
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BTW if you ever want to flog off old basing pads...

I was about 150m from Orcs Nest in London but we were out of time and energy (British Museum is brutal on the feet) so missed out on grabbing some in July.
 
Ordered dumb amounts of minis from www.em4miniatures.com - about 300 of their unpainted cheapie orcs and dwarves at about 45c each. Will be good to practice different colours, washes, maybe a dip or two, modding, give some to the kids to wreck.
 
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NTRabbit

I learned a fair but about foam core. The main walls were made without removing the paper layer, while I removed the paper when doing the tower.

The tower wasn't stippled with filler as I had to get it done for the game tonight, so I can see the benefit of using the filler in getting a stone surface.

Excuse the bad cutting between the battlements...

Greenest-Keep-Wall-Detail.jpg

Thatched hut. Roughly cut up, can't find my black spray paint so sprayed the pot-scrubber stuff with the only thing I had: a red-brown primer.

Rough thing, but I practiced a couple of techniques on it. Still to finish it off.

Greenest-Keep-Thatched-Hut.jpg

(Bricks are empty eraser holder on a Palomino pencil pressed into the foam.)
 
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NTRabbit said:
Yeah mine was a little easier on account of being cast in resin that way. Nice dry brushing on the stipple though, that and a good wash (I used Secret Weapon Stone) really helps to give that genuine rock look :thumbsu:
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Cheat!

The amount of washes I had to do to get into the gaps....

I just used kids poster paints :)

Did you know you can leave that stuff on your pallet OVERNIGHT and carry on using it the next day? Magic.
 
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