Toast Beer / Homebrew Thread

Player most likely to be a beer snob

  • Sam Butler

    Votes: 2 20.0%
  • Andrew Gaff

    Votes: 2 20.0%
  • Jack Watts

    Votes: 3 30.0%
  • Brant Colledge

    Votes: 1 10.0%
  • Jonathan Giles

    Votes: 2 20.0%

  • Total voters
    10
  • Poll closed .

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You've got me there mate! Never heard about it, but damn that sounds good!

You can buy it wet and it's like eating strips of incredible steak. Had to stop myself from eating more than 3 pieces.
 
How long would that be cured for? Is it dried in salt or something, or just left to hang in the air?
 
Chucked the rinds of 2 grapefruit and 1 blood orange in on Monday, then a 150g dry hop yesterday with the d-rest before having to open it back up this morning as the Tilt was caught on one of the sox. Smelt magnificent. 83% attenuation so far, hoping to eke a couple more points out of it over the next few days.
 
Chucked the rinds of 2 grapefruit and 1 blood orange in on Monday, then a 150g dry hop yesterday with the d-rest before having to open it back up this morning as the Tilt was caught on one of the sox. Smelt magnificent. 83% attenuation so far, hoping to eke a couple more points out of it over the next few days.
Impressed at your consistently high attenuation
 

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Impressed at your consistently high attenuation

I think maybe I'm over oxygenating? I use the O2 bottle and inline kit for the recommended 60 seconds but I go through a bottle every 5 batches when I'm told it should last 9. Also add yeast nutrient and use smack packs too.
 
I think maybe I'm over oxygenating? I use the O2 bottle and inline kit for the recommended 60 seconds but I go through a bottle every 5 batches when I'm told it should last 9. Also add yeast nutrient and use smack packs too.
I only use O2 for certain big beers, but i should probably utilise it more. The *ers don't last very long do they!? Expensive too. I bought a kilo of yeast nutrient because I can't not buy in bulk if there's an option to. HBS sells the 40g tubes for $6 or kilo tubs for $50. I know i'll never get through it but I couldn't help myself. I'd give you a baggy of it if I lived in Perth
 
I only use O2 for certain big beers, but i should probably utilise it more. The f***ers don't last very long do they!? Expensive too. I bought a kilo of yeast nutrient because I can't not buy in bulk if there's an option to. HBS sells the 40g tubes for $6 or kilo tubs for $50. I know i'll never get through it but I couldn't help myself. I'd give you a baggy of it if I lived in Perth

How do you aerate it otherwise? I'm considering the aquarium pump as it's kinda pricey to keep getting new O2 bottles, but I like how quick and easy it is.

LoL * man 1kg?! Would you be able to get through that before it goes bad?
 
How do you aerate it otherwise? I'm considering the aquarium pump as it's kinda pricey to keep getting new O2 bottles, but I like how quick and easy it is.

LoL fu** man 1kg?! Would you be able to get through that before it goes bad?
I'm going to try making my own candi syrup for some belgians which requires about a teaspoon per kilo of syrup. I didn't realise it only required a teaspoon when i bought it. I don't think it'll really go bad though, it's just dead yeast and a bunch of minerals. I also don't think you can over dose with it. Going to add at least a teaspoon to each batch from now on + a little for yeast propagation!

I normally just rely on the splashing from going into the fermenter but will also give it a shake in the fermenter before pitching
 
I'm going to try making my own candi syrup for some belgians which requires about a teaspoon per kilo of syrup. I didn't realise it only required a teaspoon when i bought it. I don't think it'll really go bad though, it's just dead yeast and a bunch of minerals. I also don't think you can over dose with it. Going to add at least a teaspoon to each batch from now on + a little for yeast propagation!

I normally just rely on the splashing from going into the fermenter but will also give it a shake in the fermenter before pitching

What's this Belgians you're referring to? Sounds intriguing.

Thinking it's time to boldy go for a pilsner next (post-Dunkelweizen) after being repeatedly scared off lagers and pils by every beer publication in history.
 
What's this Belgians you're referring to? Sounds intriguing.

Thinking it's time to boldy go for a pilsner next (post-Dunkelweizen) after being repeatedly scared off lagers and pils by every beer publication in history.
Piece of piss mate, just make sure you pitch a big (3L) yeast starter. I don't think there's that much to it. Some yeasts might be nastier than others if you pitch warm, but I think some are pretty forgiving.

Belgians as in dubbels and dark strong ales. You pay like $15 for a pound of this stuff https://beerco.com.au/collections/candi-syrup-1/products/d-90-premium-dark-candi-syrup but it appears to be relatively easy to make with white sugar, something alkaline and yeast nutrient.
 
Piece of piss mate, just make sure you pitch a big (3L) yeast starter. I don't think there's that much to it. Some yeasts might be nastier than others if you pitch warm, but I think some are pretty forgiving.

Belgians as in dubbels and dark strong ales. You pay like $15 for a pound of this stuff https://beerco.com.au/collections/candi-syrup-1/products/d-90-premium-dark-candi-syrup but it appears to be relatively easy to make with white sugar, something alkaline and yeast nutrient.

Belgian beers are the best in the world IMO. Reading up on it, interestingly says (in this recipe I'm reading) that they add the syrup in the mash at lauter/sparge phase. Is this what you're planning on doing?
 
Belgian beers are the best in the world IMO. Reading up on it, interestingly says (in this recipe I'm reading) that they add the syrup in the mash at lauter/sparge phase. Is this what you're planning on doing?
Nah probably just add it to the end of the boil. If I was doing a high gravity version i'd probably add it during fermentation
 
Nah probably just add it to the end of the boil. If I was doing a high gravity version i'd probably add it during fermentation

Er - what's considered high gravity in this instance, as this was a 10%+ beer.

Regardless I'll add it to the list of next year's cold months beers to aim for.
 
Er - what's considered high gravity in this instance, as this was a 10%+ beer.

Regardless I'll add it to the list of next year's cold months beers to aim for.
For me i'd do it if it was 1070 or above, which is more like 7.5%. Just to reduce the stress on the yeast up front. There'd be heaps of crazy techniques involved with Belgian beers though, i'm an absolute novice - never even made a dubbel before! Mostly because i don't want to pay so much for candi syrup...
 
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