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PC Pc Gaming/building thread

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any opinions on 3440x1440 monitors? good models, or whether it's even worth it? never used more than a 27" 16:9 flat monitor. but now that I have a good PC been tempted to give a 21:9 a go. might have to try find a shop where I can get a feel for the 21:9, but we have limited stores here in ACT

I'd want to have at least 120-165hz capability, don't care about getting 240hz though. never had an OLED monitor, so no opinions on that really, I'm sure it's great

I was ultrawide for years until only just very recently. In terms of fidelity it's nearly 4K horizontally but 1440 vertical. 34" ultrawide is also physically the same height as a 27", so just imagine a 27" 1440p and imagine a few extra inches (hehe) each side. Compatibility wise it's much better than it was years ago, just about everything supports ultrawide resolutions now.

I had an Acer X34P which was a pretty commonly spec'd IPS for it's time and I think it's successors are higher refresh rate. Otherwise the OLEDs like the AW3423DWF are 175hz I think. The one I had recently was the AW3423DW (no F) which had the Gsync module whereas the DWF doesn't. If you wanted to go OLED though then I'd recommend some research on things like VRR flicker which is an issue with OLED and how it handles gamma if the fps is unstable. The AW3423DW didn't suffer it at all presumably due to the module, though it has been discontinued and I don't think any other OLED monitor currently comes with the Gsync module. OLED TVs like LG also don't suffer from VRR flicker either I think due to some sort of fancy black level stabliser. With my new 4K AW3225qf I have finally witnessed VRR flicker and it's annoying but with the 5080 you've got enough horse power to apply work arounds like capping frame rates or simply disabling VRR for certain games but you're already drawing so many frames that a new one is being drawn before a tear gets to be displayed.
 
I was ultrawide for years until only just very recently. In terms of fidelity it's nearly 4K horizontally but 1440 vertical. 34" ultrawide is also physically the same height as a 27", so just imagine a 27" 1440p and imagine a few extra inches (hehe) each side. Compatibility wise it's much better than it was years ago, just about everything supports ultrawide resolutions now.

I had an Acer X34P which was a pretty commonly spec'd IPS for it's time and I think it's successors are higher refresh rate. Otherwise the OLEDs like the AW3423DWF are 175hz I think. The one I had recently was the AW3423DW (no F) which had the Gsync module whereas the DWF doesn't. If you wanted to go OLED though then I'd recommend some research on things like VRR flicker which is an issue with OLED and how it handles gamma if the fps is unstable. The AW3423DW didn't suffer it at all presumably due to the module, though it has been discontinued and I don't think any other OLED monitor currently comes with the Gsync module. OLED TVs like LG also don't suffer from VRR flicker either I think due to some sort of fancy black level stabliser. With my new 4K AW3225qf I have finally witnessed VRR flicker and it's annoying but with the 5080 you've got enough horse power to apply work arounds like capping frame rates or simply disabling VRR for certain games but you're already drawing so many frames that a new one is being drawn before a tear gets to be displayed.

what's your opinion on using OLED for work/regular usage? I've seen stuff about blurry text/text fringing, risk of burn-in too. if I buy a new monitor I'd want it to be my regular day-to-day monitor and I don't really have the room to put a second monitor anywhere other than above it (I current have a 24" 1080p stacked on top of a 27" 1440p)
 
what's your opinion on using OLED for work/regular usage? I've seen stuff about blurry text/text fringing, risk of burn-in too. if I buy a new monitor I'd want it to be my regular day-to-day monitor and I don't really have the room to put a second monitor anywhere other than above it (I current have a 24" 1080p stacked on top of a 27" 1440p)

The blurry text can be subjective because OLEDs use a different sub pixel layout which can look like chromatic fringing around text and stuff if you pixel peep. Burn in is still questionable like the old days of plasma but modern OLEDs have mitigation like a redesign of the white and red pixels that were the worst culprits, as well as a pixel shift where the entire display will shift across a pixel to avoid retention. Most manufacturers are confident enough that they provide burn in under their warranty. I can't speak for work use though as while I use mine heavily for gaming and as a wannabe indie game dev that's only evening and weekend use. If you are concerned but want the qualities of an OLED then check out some of the premium VA monitors like from Samsung. They are loaded with dimming zones for true HDR and unlike IPS can display close to true black (though obviously not as close as OLED).

Also as a 5080 owner IMO you should look at 240hz monitors if they're within your budget. The reason I say this is because if you can run a game comfortably at 60fps native then at 4x frame gen you'll cap the monitor. If you have say a 165hz monitor, enable 4x frame gen and Gsync or reflex then internally it's only running around 40fps and will introduce frame gen artifacts. An example is Indiana Jones. I can run it without frame gen closer 100fps but it's not a very intense game. I capped the fps to 240 (well technically 237 but close enough) to match my monitor and because it can comfortably maintain 60fps internally it's hard locked to 240 and the GPU sits at only like 50% load so it runs much cooler.
 
Picked up The Beast on Thursday after work, stripped my desk, then wiped it down (wasn't dirty but man the dust. Embarrassing) and hooked it all up yesterday. Just slowly doing stuff, Windows updates and what not (busy weekend, today's my birthday 😊) but quite excited. Still has the plastic on the sides of the case because my hands have been all over it, looking forward to peeling it off to really drool but it all looks quite stunning.

Haven't had a chance to actually play anything yet but looking forward to it!

Already hate Windows 11 though.
 

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Picked up The Beast on Thursday after work, stripped my desk, then wiped it down (wasn't dirty but man the dust. Embarrassing) and hooked it all up yesterday. Just slowly doing stuff, Windows updates and what not (busy weekend, today's my birthday 😊) but quite excited. Still has the plastic on the sides of the case because my hands have been all over it, looking forward to peeling it off to really drool but it all looks quite stunning.

Haven't had a chance to actually play anything yet but looking forward to it!

Already hate Windows 11 though.

Happy birthday!
 
I'm such a fool.

I'd been tearing my hair out wondering about what had been causing my loss of signal after gaming sessions and after being certain it was software issues I finally figured out I had been using a pigtail cable for my 3080. I must have just thoughtlessly plugged it in after a pc cleaning session one time while not paying attention. Nice to get KCD2 temps back down to 53c from 85c.
 
Rebuilt the old system to sell today.

Of course look who shows up straight away

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Happy with how it came out not having to worry about AIOs and RGB and shit. Besides the RAM and whatever is on the motherboard and GPU it's mostly stealth. Won't be able to see the RAM anyway.

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When the wife is away this is what I have to put up with. How am I supposed to do anything? He also drank my water without even asking.

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Are we cat-sharing and just don't know it?

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Any recommendations for xbox controllers? Looking for one with a hall effect and one where pressing the L stick won't wear down so fast but that feels exactly as comfortable as the original. Preferably under 90 bucks.

GamesirG7 is one I have come across that looks ok but want more opinions
 
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Any recommendations for xbox controllers? Looking for one with a hall effect and one where pressing the L stick won't wear down so fast but that feels exactly as comfortable as the original. Preferably under 90 bucks.

GamesirG7 is one I have come across that looks ok but want more opinions
I've tried a few but ended up with the official XBox controller. So far it's holding up well, the 'B' gets a bit stuck every now and then but the L stick holds up.
 
I've tried a few but ended up with the official XBox controller. So far it's holding up well, the 'B' gets a bit stuck every now and then but the L stick holds up.

The L stick on mine is screwed. It's not drift, going right/left/vertical etc is fine it's just the L stick won't respond when pressing it down. I don't know if the springs are worn down but I have tried opening it up and cleaning/replacing the sensors to no avail but from reading online I probably need to get a new potentiometer but that kind of stuff involves soldering kits and that's beyond my skill/patience.

And I figure by the time I send it off and pay someone to repair it I'm almost better just getting a new one altogether.

Want to avoid getting another original one since they seem so fragile. I have 360 and n64 controllers that still work to this day. Sound old saying this but shit really was made to last back then.
 
I've had a few Series S/X controllers the last few years, some failed within days/weeks... others have lasted years.

Had a few that went wonky early - either 1 of the face buttons got stuck, or a shoulder/trigger button. Had a few the hot stick drift up/down (I blame too much rocket league for that).

I currently rotate between a few that I use on both xbox and pc.

Some are from the Telstra Rewards app (too many points thus I just used them to stock up on controllers), the galaxy console purchased from last year.... or special edition controllers (the gold controller rocks!).

I use an 8bitdo wireless Bluetooth controller as my main for pc. Xbox style layout but feels more precise like the Nintendo Pro controller.
 
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Also on the pc building/buying front... I'm hoping to get SOMETHING this year. I've cleaned out my previous computer room space - now just need a computer to go back in there.

My 13 year old pc still resides in there but aa it's been years since I've used it (got too comfy with my laptops lol) I might blow myself up turning it on jk.

That said I'm probably going to pick out choice internal parts + the case.... but sit on deciding on a gpu until later (thus spend xxxx on the main system, then another xxxx on the ideal gpu). I did some reading last night my 2080ti would run the cycle of games that I play.
 

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Gamesir are the cheapest with HE that review the best. I've given up on Pro controllers as I've had two wear out and I'm not paying that sort of money for another to do the same so I've gone back to just regular Series X controllers and if they wear out in 12 months then so be it, I'll buy another.
 
Can anyone point me in the right direction here? PC has been operating fine even played some Schedule I this afternoon with no problems at all. Stopped for dinner did some ****ing around organising the kids etc just had Netflix running on it

Go back to play again tonight, unplayable. 0 FPS (probably not 0, but low enough I can't even check how low). Tried a couple of different, easy graphically games and both the same. Tried a reboot and still nada.

Actually stumped, nobody else used the PC in the mean time.

Browsing etc not affected. Nor is youtubing etc.

Edit: 6750XT - Drivers are up to date.
 
I just got the GameSir Cyclone 2, and it feels really good. Feels better than an Xbox Series X controller, don't know if the sticks are hall effect or not, but the face buttons have a slight click when you press on them, which is very satisfying.

I also bought one of the 8bitdo Ultimate Pro controllers, which feels uncomfortable compared to the GameSir.

Wouldn't touch an Xbox Elite controller anymore, I had one of the original ones and the rubber fell off, the sticks fell apart. For the price, it needs to have felt like a much more premium product, but it was cheap and broke very easily.

GameSir feels like a premium product.
 
Gamesir are the cheapest with HE that review the best. I've given up on Pro controllers as I've had two wear out and I'm not paying that sort of money for another to do the same so I've gone back to just regular Series X controllers and if they wear out in 12 months then so be it, I'll buy another.
I was given a scuff pro PS4 as a present that's served me well - was given it back when I was deep into Destiny and Destiny 2 and loved it - rarely play with a controller on PC but dust it off occasionally - very comfortable and has held up very well.
 
Can anyone point me in the right direction here? PC has been operating fine even played some Schedule I this afternoon with no problems at all. Stopped for dinner did some ****ing around organising the kids etc just had Netflix running on it

Go back to play again tonight, unplayable. 0 FPS (probably not 0, but low enough I can't even check how low). Tried a couple of different, easy graphically games and both the same. Tried a reboot and still nada.

Actually stumped, nobody else used the PC in the mean time.

Browsing etc not affected. Nor is youtubing etc.

Edit: 6750XT - Drivers are up to date.

This happened to me on NBA 2k and was something to do with Shaders + I think I needed to update my driver. It was weird, didn't happen on any other game but started happening on 2k and then fairly sure I updated my driver, then it took an hour to load shaders when I first launched it and then it was sweet. Is it just Schedule I or other games too?
 
I was given a scuff pro PS4 as a present that's served me well - was given it back when I was deep into Destiny and Destiny 2 and loved it - rarely play with a controller on PC but dust it off occasionally - very comfortable and has held up very well.

I haven't tried the Scuffs. They review well but they're so expensive now. The Pros I was talking about was the Xbox Pro and while they feel good they have nothing but problems. My first one, granted had heaps of hours, just started doing things like double pressing face buttons and sticky shoulders. It eventually got a bit of stick drift too. The second one the RB started to simply wear out and was really inconsistent when trying to press. I've gone back to the regular Series X controllers even if I have to buy one every year but it's going to wear out too. I think I'll get something with HE sticks next time like the GameSir because I think now for any controller to last it needs HE sticks and mechanical switch buttons. The latest Razer Wolverine is supposed to be really good but the Razer tax on that thing is nuts, even for a Razer fan. I still use controllers on PC quite a bit but it depends on the game.
 

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This happened to me on NBA 2k and was something to do with Shaders + I think I needed to update my driver. It was weird, didn't happen on any other game but started happening on 2k and then fairly sure I updated my driver, then it took an hour to load shaders when I first launched it and then it was sweet. Is it just Schedule I or other games too?
Nah other games too. I'm going to try fully uninstalling the drivers and redownloading just in case.

I've checked the hardware is all connected still (just in case someone is ****ing with me)

It's honestly operating as if I'm trying to use the onboard graphics card for some reason (ask me how I know what that looks like lol)

I've checked for any malware or viruses and it doesn't look like theres anything there either.
 
Nah other games too. I'm going to try fully uninstalling the drivers and redownloading just in case.

I've checked the hardware is all connected still (just in case someone is ****ing with me)

It's honestly operating as if I'm trying to use the onboard graphics card for some reason (ask me how I know what that looks like lol)

I've checked for any malware or viruses and it doesn't look like theres anything there either.

Even though you're using the graphics card output Windows hasn't actually switched to processing to onboard has it? Or even if the power settings have set to power saving or something?
 
Even though you're using the graphics card output Windows hasn't actually switched to processing to onboard has it? Or even if the power settings have set to power saving or something?
Possibly. How would I check that in windows? And if the display is pluggd into the GPU could it still try run from the onboard?
 
Just got my FTTP upgrade today. Pretty decent at 6pm when it's the 250 tier. Didn't go 1000 because with Telstra it's just too expensive at the moment. Considered some other options like Aussie but as the missus works from home and relies on the internet so I didn't want to risk unreliable service when Telstra have been rock solid. I think I read last year that NBN will be shuffling the tiers this year or next anyway so I'm assuming the 250 tier will get bumped to 400 or 500. 3ms ping is tidy too. On my previous FTTC connection my best ping was usually 6 or 7.


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edit: just downloading Alan Wake 2 again and that has translated to about 33mb sec woo

Can thoroughly recommend aussie. 940/40ish most of the time and never had any dramas. If your missus is worried you could always test aussie for a few weeks - you can run more than one fttp connection i found out when i switched.

Edit - oops didnt realise this was an old post.
 
Possibly. How would I check that in windows? And if the display is pluggd into the GPU could it still try run from the onboard?

I think if you go into display settings right clicking desktop and it's either in there or an advanced menu. I'm not home at the moment so I can't check but somewhere around there you can specify.

I didn't think it was possible either if plugged into the graphics card but apparently it is. I guess because the GPU is still connected to the motherboard and graphics processing can be done on the CPU before sending it.
 
Can thoroughly recommend aussie. 940/40ish most of the time and never had any dramas. If your missus is worried you could always test aussie for a few weeks - you can run more than one fttp connection i found out when i switched.

Edit - oops didnt realise this was an old post.

Cheers anyway. We're getting over the rated speed too which is nice to know once the tiers get adjusted.
 

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